Doni Nahmias, the creative force behind the Californian menswear brand Nahmias, is currently experiencing a period of significant achievement. Following a highly successful partnership with actor Timothée Chalamet and stylist Taylor McNeill on the widely popular Marty Supreme clothing line, Nahmias is poised to make a highly anticipated return to the Parisian fashion scene after a three-year absence. The designer, who has been showcasing his collections in a Paris showroom since his last show for Fall/Winter 2023, will present an off-calendar runway event this Thursday at the prestigious Palais de Tokyo.
In a recent virtual conversation, Nahmias shared insights into the impact of his collaboration with Timothée Chalamet. He emphasized that the value of the partnership extended far beyond monetary gains, primarily enhancing the brand's marketing reach, fostering creative innovation, and generating substantial cultural influence and virality. The designer highlighted that this collaboration has effectively redefined the interaction between the film and fashion industries, setting a new benchmark for such joint ventures. The overwhelming success, particularly with the Marty Supreme jacket, was a surreal experience that surpassed initial expectations, underscoring the fortuitous alignment of circumstances.
The decision to stage a return to the Paris runway was a deliberate one, meticulously planned over the past year. While Nahmias did host a show in Los Angeles in June 2024, the upcoming Paris event marks their first return to the French capital in three years. Nahmias explained that this timing felt appropriate given the brand's substantial growth and the clear articulation of its unique identity and design philosophy. He expressed a desire to showcase the brand's evolution at the highest international level, making Paris the ideal platform to communicate its current vision.
Explaining the three-year hiatus from Paris, Nahmias pointed to the substantial financial investment required for a runway show, especially in a city like Paris. He noted that even with creative budgeting, a single show could consume an entire season's revenue, necessitating a careful evaluation of its strategic value. His intention was to establish a robust foundation for the brand before committing to such significant expenditures. This period allowed Nahmias to solidify the brand's core operations and ensure its readiness for a high-profile return.
Looking ahead, Nahmias unveiled several exciting initiatives planned for the current year. These include a brand takeover at Maxfield's Prouvé house in Los Angeles in February, coinciding with his return from Paris. Additionally, Nahmias is launching his first collaboration with Puma, featuring two sneaker drops scheduled for February and April. A significant partnership with Formula One is also on the horizon, involving multiple pop-up events, with plans for the Miami Grand Prix in May. These collaborations will offer both online availability and specialized drops for various races, aiming to introduce innovative elements to the market from a smaller brand perspective.
From a business standpoint, Nahmias anticipates nearing $10 million in sales this year, demonstrating consistent organic growth of 20% to 30% annually since its inception in 2018. The brand has demonstrated resilience, even thriving during challenging economic periods. Its smaller scale has provided a degree of protection against significant losses in the wholesale sector, allowing for flexibility in navigating market fluctuations through direct-to-consumer strategies like pop-ups and enhanced online sales.
Regarding distribution, Nahmias is actively exploring the possibility of opening a flagship retail space in Los Angeles, viewing it as a crucial step towards scaling the brand from a $10 million to a $50 million or even $200 million enterprise. Brick-and-mortar presence and direct-to-consumer channels are identified as key drivers for this ambitious growth. Geographically, the brand currently sees 65% of its sales in the US, with major markets in Los Angeles, New York, and Miami, along with strong performance in London. Efforts are underway to expand into Asia, with a focus on increasing e-commerce sales by 50% this year, following a similar growth trajectory from 2024 to 2025.
To achieve this e-commerce growth, Nahmias plans to intensify social media engagement, recognizing its role as a primary consumer touchpoint. The strategy involves moving beyond traditional campaign imagery to focus on compelling storytelling. This led to the development of original, hand-drawn Nahmias cartoons, which are released as short, engaging episodes on social media platforms leading up to shows. This approach taps into a sense of nostalgia for 90s cartoons, creating an emotional connection with the audience.
The upcoming Fall/Winter 2026 collection, titled "Wipeout," draws inspiration from the sensation of losing control while riding a wave or skateboarding, and the subsequent rush and discomfort. This collection is described as the brand's most refined and mature offering to date, yet it retains a playful spirit rooted in its Californian heritage. The collection features a diverse range of materials, including jacquards, knits, printed suedes, and denim, with the introduction of tailored pieces and suiting elements. Footwear will expand beyond sneakers and Puma collaborations to include loafers, alongside new accessories and high-end jewelry. A nostalgic nod to classic 90s cartoons will also be evident, with original characters integrated into the designs.
Nahmias is also broadening its pricing structure for this collection, incorporating high-end, specialty items such as leather goods and premium knitwear, while simultaneously offering more accessible price points to cater to a wider demographic. This strategy aims to make the brand attainable for younger or less affluent customers. The brand's best-selling categories include bottoms, such as denim and cargo pants, and hats, with the Miracle Academy hat remaining a signature item. Additionally, custom pieces for athletes constitute a significant portion of their direct business, facilitated by their in-house atelier. Looking ahead, Nahmias plans to venture into womenswear within the next one to two seasons, further diversifying its offerings. Even Nahmias's grandmother continues to be a loyal supporter, proudly owning a Marty Supreme jacket, underscoring the brand's broad appeal.